Temples around Ubud

09.11.11

So far in Indonesia we had spent a lot of time on beaches

and had noticed alot about the differences in culture.

But hadn't actually found out a lot about life in Bali,

paricularly about their version of Hinduism, which plays

such a huge part in life here. So we'd decided to

invest in a driver, who was highly recommended online, to take us

around Ubud and the surrounding temples and rice

terraces to try and find out more! It was way out of our

budget but I had far too many questions!

So Ari arrived at 9am this morning. From the word go,

Ari was very friendly and courteous and is eager to

answer any questions about his life and culture. He told

us about his life. He lives in a village with his family,

including his brothers's families and his mother and father,

who all share a compound. Each family of 4/5 has their own

house. Within his village there are 26 compounds and 700

people total living there.

Ari's father was a builder by trade originally, then recently

he was made 'head' of the village, which he did for 5 years and

now he does neither, but manages his livestock and helps to

look after his grandchildren. Ari explained that anybody in

the village can be the 'head', unless they have children as

they will have too many responsibilities and will not be able

to support them properly. They must be nominated by others in

the village and after 5 years someone else will take the

position. It is a lot of responsibility.

The first temple that Ari took us to is called Goa Gajah (Elephant

Caves) because when it was first rediscovered it was thought the

cave entrance was a carving of an elephant, but actually it is

a demon. On this site there is a Hindu temple and also a Buddhist

temple, which was destroyed during an earthquake.

To enter the sight you walk down a long flight of steps. Below you,

you can see a bathing pool and to the left of it the mouth of a

small cave. To get to the bathing pool you have to go down a few

steep steps and opposite you are a row 6 female figures with what was

the 'male' figure in the middle. Ari explained that Balinese Hindu's also

worship Shiva, Krishna and Brahma who are all mainfestations of the same spirit Sanghyang Widhi.

But Balienese HIndu's also believe in native/local spirits and demons and

alot of the rituals revolve around maintaining balance.

Particular colours are very symbolic.

White and Gold are often seen within the temple, and

all worshippers wear these colours, these are holy colours. Black and

white represent good and evil and red represents power.

We went through the mouth of the Demon down a narrow passage way with

some alcoves, used for meditation in to a wide and shallow chamber,

where offering were laid out. Everywhere on Bali you come across

little baskets of offerings; on the pavement, outside every shop,

on the beach. The offerings are in coconut leaf baskets. You can

put in anything from rice, flowers, incense, cigarrettes- whatever

you have. Whatever you can give. If you have a bigger wish you may

want to give a bigger offering consisting of rice, then a coconut,

on top a lotus flower. The rice represents that earth/ground, the coconut the

world and the flower the universe.

We had noticed that down every street there were several temples. Ari

explained that each family had a small temple. Then in each village

there would be several different temples for different purposes/times.

He showed us a small garden temple with a small shrine on a little

island with a 'moat' surrounding it.All around the coast of Bali there are temples to

protect the island. Ari said the Balinese people joke that is there

is a tsunami the Gods will die first!

Once we had walked through the Hindu temple we followed a maze of steps

downwards in to a small valley where the ruins of a huge statue of

Buddha lay, it had once sat at the top of the hill. We followed the steps

up and past the original sight of the Buddha and wound through the rice

fields back to the Hindu temple.

Next we got back in the car to continue on to Yeh Pulu, which I was

excited about because it was supposed to be really peaceful and off

the tourist trail. I wasn't disappointed. To get to the temple we had

to walk through some picturesque rice terraces, apparently about a month

off harvesting. This temple is on the sight of a natural spring where there

is a small bathing pool. It dates from the 14th and 15th century and

is one of the oldest holy places in Bali. Before you reach the carvings

you stepped through a stone entrance way that is symmetrical. It represents

splitting yourself in two, leaving the bad behind at the gate and entering

with the good. Ari explained inner 'gates' within temples represent

then unifying yourself, channelling your energies to God. There isn't

a inner gateway on this site however. There is 20 metres of stone carvings

of Hindu and Balinese Gods. An old lady looks after the shrine to Ganesh.

The next temple is called Gunung Kawi, the 'Mountain of the Poets'. This

complex dates from the 11th century. It is a very impressive, atmospheric

setting. You have to descend down 300 odd steps in to a humid, ravine

lined with trees. It was thought to have been created as the burial

place for King Anuk Wungsu and his wives. On either side of the ravine,

through which flows the Pakerisan River, are the 9 tombs, said to have been

carved out of rock by fingernails. As you peer in to the ravine you can

see a huge rock which has the imprint of a giant 'hand' pressed in to it!

On the other side of the river is the temple and burial sight of the King.

The walk back up was tiring but we were rewarded with lush views across the

rice fields and in to the ravine. The next stop on our trip was Tirta

Empal, which is one of the holiest sites on Bali as it is the site of a

holy spring. We were really fortunate as today is a full moon, so a holy day

and there was a ceremony going on when we arrived. The Balinese calendar is

based on the lunar calendar.

Before you enter the temple, you should wash at the holy springs. You can

bath in the 2 pools which are fed by 10 fountains, each representing

something different. The worshippers enter the pool and move from left to right

washing under each fountain. Some people also collect the holy water to take

back to their homes.

Walking on towards the temple entrance there were many women carrying large baskets

on their heads, full of fruit and flowers to leave at the temples as offerings.

The baskets are then taken home, after receiving a blessing. On our left as we

entered the temple is a large pagoda with people playing colourful instuments.

Placed all over the floor were small offerings. The temple is open air with 3 or

4 other large pagodas where basket upon basket had been left. Then there was the

inner temple and the site of the natural hole spring.

Within a separate courtyard was a large congregation, again all dressed in white,

sat on the floor. First they faced the 2 priests sat on a pacoda at one end.

Then at the other was lots of baskets of offerings in front of the springs, which

at the appropriate point the congregation all turned to face.

We were so lucky to be able to experience this even though we didn't fully

understand what was going on!

Our next stop, was lunch overlooking rice terraces, near the famous Tegallangtang

terraces, which we stopped at last of all. The rice fields are stepped down

the hill. Ari explained that Balinese farmers use a famous irrigation system,

where water is channelled from the top layer down through the fields to the bottom.

The first month the fields are almost flooded and need increasingly less water

throughout the process. When the rice is ready, you can tell this when the top

of the crop is a brown colour, the field needs to be dry so that the crop can be harvested.

This is of course increasingly done with machinery but in some places is still done by

hand. The rice is cut and then beaten by hand to release the part that contains

the rice. This is then left to dry out in the sun. I was suprised how hard the rice

grain actually is before the outer coating is peeled away to reveal the white grain.

The views were beautiful, so many bright greens and tall palm trees. The view was

only spoilt by the odd farmer loitering hoping to get you to photograph them

'farming'!

We had such a good day with Ari, it was well worth the extra money for us. And

actually Ari's price is very reasonable, but we are just on a very tight budget!

He was very informative, friendly and helpful. He even provided bottles of water,

large umbrellas (which he carried for us) and lent us sarongs. He did however

draw the line at carrying Martin back up the steps from Gunung Kawi!! He took us

around each temple explaining what we saw and has good knowledge of the history

of each sight. Thanks very much Ari!