The Golden Temple

23/09/11

We had a late start this morning, beginning our day with a wander around the well kept gardens that surround the Golden Temple. Untill we had walked around 3 sides of the temple complex and found the busy main entrance and a bazaar. We found a place to eat that was recommended in our

guide book. The lunch was good but the highlight was meeting an English/Punjabi couple who introduced themselves and then came to eat with us. Balbir and Gurdial were both born in Punjab but grew up from quite a young age and now lived in Bristol. They are baptised Sikhs and invited us to join them around the Golden Temple.

It was such a brilliant afternoon, not only is the Golden Temple breathtaking to look at and the atmosphere around the temple incredible but we had our own guides. They guided us through the basic premises of Sikhism and as we went round explained the significance of each part of the temple complex. The couple also acted as translators for all the temple goers that wanted to engage us in conversation, which were quite a few. After walking around the sacred lake that the Golden temple is sat within we queued up to actually go into the temple. There was quite a lot of amiable pushing and shoving to get in! The temple itself is made of gold and Gurdial told us that every 250 years the gold is completely replaced, through donations. Within the whole complex you can hear hymms being chanted throughout the day without break until the holy book is put to bed at night. Another spiritual experience.

We can not thank Balbir and Gurdial enough for such a lovely and insightful day.

On our way to Amritsar

22.09.11

Today has been an interesting day. We left Mcleod Ganj, the lovely TIbetran oasis of calm. in a shared tax with Julia, a primary school teacher from London. We had been told the journey would take anything from 5 hours to 9 hours so we weren't really sure what to expect. It took us about 2 and a half hours to get to Pathenkot and out of the mountains. The scenary

was beautiful as we wound down through the hills and over large shallow river beds through Himachal Pradesh. AS we left the hills aand entered the province of Punjab the scenary changed. The land was extremely flat with green, lush fields as far as you could see. The people also looked different. We began to see more Sikh men with orange, white or purple turbans on

and long beards. A majority of the woman were wearing baggy trousers and long tunic tops. The auto rickshaws also looked different -they were larger than the autorickshaws we had seen before, a cross between a tractor/rickshaw/classic car! All the villages we have been through the house/shops have looked like rows of garages, just one room with a shutter.As we came closer to Amritsar the towns and villages we passed seemed more industrial with small foundries, brick works or mechanical workshops.

In total it took us about 6 hours to reach Amritsar. When we arrived we made our way to near the train station, we thought we'd find a hotel room near the station and then buy a ticket for tomorrow or the next day. however after trying 3 different hotels we couldn't find a clean room or a cheap enough room so we decided to go to the station and then find a hotel near the

Golden Temple. Buying a ticket was much more complicated than we antipated! We found the ticket office and waited in line. When we explained to them what we wanted they ushered us around to the side door and asked to go inside the ticket booth. Inside they sat us down and tried to decipher exactly what we wanted and then gave us directions to a reservation office.

So we hauled up our packs and walked to where we thought the reservation office was. Only to find this was the 'wrong' office, they then directed us to another office on the other side of the tracks. When we got there we had to fill in a form that could only be found, it seemed, in piles on the floor and had large blobs of ink on so you couldn't read what we had to fill in. However we did our best and joined the queue. Which for the first 20 minutes didn't seem to move anywhere and various people kept going up and contribute to whatever the person at the counter was asking for.

After much patience we eventually reached the counter and they were very helpful and managed to book us a ticket-Amritsar to Delhi, 5 hours in Delhi then on to Jaipur.

After that we were exhausted and couldn't wait to get to a hotel room, so we hopped in an auto rickshaw and got to a hotel near the Golden temple. We dropped off our bags and went for a wander. It was very busy, evening prayers were obviously going on in the temple. As we walked around the outside of the temple, through the Gurdwaras where people could stay, they

were handing out daal and rice in small dishes to whoever wanted it. There were shiny streamers hanging over us, the buildings of the temple were all lit up with coloured lights and we could hear singing and chanting over the speakers. We came out the other side of the complex to find a blively market that we're going to explore tomorrow along with the streets

of the industrial quarter near us. For dinner, we went to a little local's Dhaba. There was no menu, but they invited us in and did there best to explain what was on the menu. We had a green pea, daal in gravy and then cauliflower, along with roti all washed down with chai. It was

delicious and very cheap. We were some what the celebrities though and got lots of stares!

Visiting Dal Lake and national service!

20.09.09

This morning we decided to walk to Dal Lake. A very helpful lady had drawn us a map of all the places of interest we could walk to. So we headed out of town and began walking up a very steep path past the Mountaineering Institute of Mcleod. All the way up we were entertained by scores of monkeys chasing each other up and down trees, rooting through large open collection

bins, which seem to provide food to most of the animals we have seen wandering wild, including the sacred cow and wild dogs. It's a little disconcerting to see a monkey munching on a condom or a goat chewing on tin foil plates. They are not fussy! There were lots tiny young monkeys clinging to their mother or being preened. They were not concerned at all by our presence. Anyway so after about 45 minutes walking we got to a private residence and had to turn back!

So we returned to the main square and decided to follow another road that went in roughly the same direction through the taxi rank. As we walked 300m or so up the road there must of been about 100+ taxis, just sat waiting. More taxis than I've ever seen, for such a small community! This time we had chosen the correct path. The lady who drew us a map said that the lake was about 2km away. The signs said it was 4 km, but I would say it was nearer 6! It was an interesting walk through army land up in to the mountains. I can imagine it's quite a busy route in peak season as there were small shops in little communities along the way. I have to say I was a little underwhelmed when we got there! But it was quite pleasant, not as large as I expected or as yellow in colour, but it was surrouded by Himachal cedar trees and the mountains.

We had planned to be back in town to volunteer in the English language course that LIT were running, but we were late so we had tea at a small cafe and waited to the end of the session because we had agreed to meet an Israeli girl, Diddi who thought that she may want to travel with us to Amritsar in a shared taxi, along with her friends. It turned out she didn't

but we had an interesting talk walking in to town. She told me about the system of national service in Israel. Every young person must go in to the army after high school, women for 2 years and men 3 years. She told me that she thought national service was a good idea and she had really enjoyed her time in the army. She explained that there was a large range of

jobs available in the army and that after basic training she worked for the Education section, as a counsellor for troubled youths and loved it. She thought National Service taught young people a lot of skills that you otherwise wouldn't learn, some discipline. It sounds like the Israeli army looks after it's recruits, paying recruits from poorer families more money to help their families. It also takes the emphasis away from leaving school and trying to decide on your profession and

future so young. People can perhaps make more educated choices and have a chance to learn more about themselves before they decide.

My male second cousins who are Cypriot have all had to so national service, I think for a year and at least one of them had a terrible experience and hated every minute of it. But I think the emphasis is very much on being able to protect the country and fight, so there may be a different ethos. I don't think national service would be such a bad idea in the UK, although very unpopular, or maybe you should have to do some kind of community service, on behalf of the army, in return for benefits. It may be a way of teaching people more respect for others, create more of a community spirit and pride for our countries future. Just a thought.........obviously it doesn't have all the answers but it may be a way of changing peoples attitudes and allowing people to meet others from different communities and establish more cohesion, bridge some gaps between classes?

I would like to have the opportunity to talk to more people from Israel!

The Dalai Lama

19.09.11

So far it has been a great day and it is only midday. We got up earlyish to go in to town to see whether there was any sign of the Dalai Lama arriving. There wasn't so we went to a tiny restuarant for Tibetan brown bread with honey and the biggest bowl of 'special' muesli and had ever seen. This was no ordinary muesli; packed with fresh coconut, guava, apple(?) peanuts, corn-type flakes and other grains, then covered with curd (like yoghurt). A very healthy start!

There was still no sign so we walked out of town to the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts, unfortunately there are no performances for a while because it is out of season. So we continued walking on to Dharamkot, a tiny village with a little school and some retreats and places to 'find yourself'. Martin decided it was probably safer for everyone if he didn't find himself so we headed back to Mcleod.

As we got back to the main square there was quite a commotion with groups of local people gathered, blocking the road. We took the hint and decided to wait in the square and secure a good view. We were not disappointed as 15 minutes later, the Dalai Lama drove past in a large convoy. We had been told, by our informer yesterday, to stand on the left hand side

of the road to get the best view. So there he was waving and smiling to the small crowd as he drove past. There was no hysteria just a quiet feeling of excitement, respect and admiration. I was suprised at how excited I was to see him. I know very little about Buddhism and the Dalai Lama, only what I have experienced previously in Thailand, and I have seen one interview (with Michael Palin of course). He just seems to have a quiet, wise, open minded presence. I am definitely going to read more into Buddhism. I am suspicious of religion in general because of what seems to be an emphasis in some religions of their beliefs being the right and only thing to believe, oh and the idea of there being a God! Whereas in Buddhism there is no God as such and it hopes that one day all religions will continue alongside each other with mutual

respect and understanding.

This evening we went to a film showing at the Learning and Ideas For Tibet Society. It's a small chirity that's set up to teach Tibetans with English Conversation classes and to educate tourists about the Tibetan situation. We watched a film called The Cup which was about 2 boys who have been sent to a monastery in India by their parents, in order to get them out of Tibet. To be honest I was a bit disappointed because I hoped to get more information from the evening about the Tibetan situation. However the film did not give any incite in to this, but it was an enjoyable film and interesting to watch my first Tibetan made film. We were expecting there would be some discussion or Q&A session about the current situation when this did not happen I tried to engage the English girl who ran the session in conversation,unfortunately she hurried off!!

Afterwards we went to Mclo for a Himachal cider. There we met an Argentian couple, Alehandro and Lucila who were in India on their honeymoon. They were a very friendly couple, a film producer and Psychiatrist. Alehandro also had an interest in football and knew of Saints, much to Martin's delight and also watched poker frequently on Sky. So as you can imagine

neither Lucila or I could get a word in edge ways. We are hoping to meet them tomorrow for a drink/dinner.

Journey from Delhi to Mcleod Ganj.

17/09/11

So we had a sleepless night last night, because yesterday in our sleep deprived, delirious, exciteable states and partly down to my hero-worship of Michael Palin we decided to book a 5 day trip to Kashmir. I had decided before we came to India that although it looked like a beautiful place we were not going to go because there are still government warnings etc. But we

were won round and really wanted to go. However after rereading the list of events that had happened in Kashmir and in my typical irrational way I started to worry and then beat myself up about being so spontaneous. Then I felt guilty because every Indian we met told us how beautiful it was and how safe (especially as we are in Delhi, which got bombed days ago!)

It seems such a shame not to go, but we decided that me being me would not beable to relax to enjoy it. Idiot!

Anyways so we decided instead to get the bus straight to Dharamsala this evening at 6pm. So we spent the afternoon exploring the noisy, dirty streets of Main bazaar, often being stopped by men, mainly addressing Martin not me. Martin kept repeating throughout the day the comments of one man; "You look like a movie star". It's when pottering around like this and taking rickshaw journeys that I could take a photo just by blinking, because I missed so many things I wanted to take pictures of and was reluctant to take pictures of some people for fear of being intrusive: the lady sat on the street painting one of the ceramic pots from her stall in in front of a simple home and shrine, the barber. As we were walking I was awoken from

my trancelike state by giggling school children spraying me with water (phew!) and running away.

Next we decided to relax with a drink at one of the many roof-top cafes in the bazaar -great for people watching accompanied by a cacophone of horns, whistles and shouts. It was fascinating admiring the range of outfits the women in particular were wearing from saris in different silks and variations of embroidery and salwar kamis (trousers and over-blouse). I was reading

that you can tell where a woman comes from and her religion and caste by what she is wearing.

At 4pm we were herded to where we could only guess the bus was supposed to pick us up. We sat with other westerners on ths street waiting. Along came some begging children who appeared to be human elastic bands who could contort to grab each others ankles

, rolling along the pavement while their nother or sister played the drum. The charities ask you not to give money directly

to the children but to charities, to discourage parents for sending their children out begging, but it is difficult not to when coming face to face with such poverty. Anyways eventually the bus arrived and we got on and comfortable driving through the outskirts of Delhi until the bus stopped and we were told to get off and were led to the side of the road and

told to wait. We waited for nearly an hour, still not really sure what we were waiting for and sharing our worries with fellow passengers. You think you get used to these situations after you've done a bit of travelling but it's still disconcerting not having a written itienary, written in stone or a ticket in your hand.

The bus did arrive and we were assured it was going to where we wanted to go. We travelled for three hours before the first stop, which were relieved had toilets. Even with straight roads the journey was very jerky, because there were lots of diversions, police checks and just general chaotic driving with each doing their own thing not planning ahead or worrying what anyone else was doing. We were also lullibied by the Bollywood movies that were played very loudly in to

the early hours. A few hours from Delhi, not sure of the locations, but all we drove past alot of huge hotels and malls.

Along the route the bus constantly swerves huge potholes and through the night the roads get increasingly windy.

18/09/11

As it gets light we rise to increasing altitudes, the views are stunning the roads littered with small villages of simple houses with shutters adorned with vodaphone logos.

As we pulled in to the bus station I was so ill and so relieved to get off the bus! We got a autorickshaw straight to the Pink House where we were greeted by the owner by name! We had a few hours sleep and then went up to the rooftop for some lunch of daal and chowmein watching clouds moving like smoke across the mountains and Tibeten prayer flags fluttering.

We then went to explore Mcleod Ganj, near Dharamsala, where we are staying. This is is the home of the exciled Tibeten government, including the Dalai Lama and home to lots of Tibetan refugees. Our first impressions were of a very calm, relaxing, spiritual place. As we walked out towards Bhagsu Nag we admired the beautiful views marred with the litter and open sewers, but only marginally! As we walked up the hill we came across a family building their house just off the road, a beautiful, elegant lady in an intricate sari was carrying rubble on her head. As we watched her she tipped the rubble in to a van and then walked back down the slope and swopped her empty basket for a full basket with another lady, so gracefully. I was suprised to see women doing this work but apparently this is common. Gender does not influence jobs in poorer castes, women do exactly the same as men and even while pregnant or carrying a young child

simultaneously. Amazing.

Later we walked back through Mcleod Ganj to other end where we came to the temple at the residence of the Dalai Lama, Tsug Lagkhang. Which is no where near as grandiose as you would see at places of the same significance in other religions. As we entered the

temple we were stopped by an american lady who told us that the Dalai Lama is due to return home tomorrow and where to stand and wait, so tomorrow we will try to get a glimpse. We also read about the Panchen Lama who 2 days after he was pronounced the Panchen Lama, was kidnapped along with his family, by the Chinese government, who have now admitted this. He

was only 6 years old. We also read more today about the plight of Tibetans in their own country, which is being denied and

gradually eroded by the Chinese government. It is becoming mandatory for Mandarin to be the first language taught in schools in Tibet. It is illegal to be protesting or writing about the Tibetan cause in CHina. Many influential Tibetans have been arrested and tortured until they admit to falsified charges. Many have received prison sentences and made to carry out forced labour in order to 'reform' their ideals. Some have even received the death sentence. Imagine feeling so strongly about your culture and so deeply rooted in your culture to risk death to continue your

traditions. I whether I would do the same? but I'm not sure I really have a strong cultural identity, especially without

religion. Don't get me wrong I am very proud of my Cypriot roots and I love the traditions that go along with it and I

suppose when I come away I feel stronger ties to all things that are 'English'. But I'm not sure if these are associations

with being English or just home. but maybe that is what this struggle is about -a sense of home and all the things that

go with it. The right to have a home. The right to continue those practises that make it home. Freedom.

We spent the rest of the day just pottering around the town and then went for dinner at the Tibetan Yak restuarant, which is popular with local people and we sampled our first Tibetan momo (parcels of vegetables or tofu) and thenthuk ( a flat noodle soup). Both were very tasty and filling. We're also getting a taste for the local tea with milk, although I'm

not sure it's the same chai we will have elswhere in India. In the restaurant we met a cultural anthropologist from Vienna who was travelling with her 3 year old son. How brave to take your young son on such a trip and what an amazing way to grow up, She said her son was a seasoned traveller and could sleep anywhere and could speak the basics of several different languages - incredible. That's one thing I really regret - not continuing to a fluent standard with

another language - but maybe there is still time, depending on where we end up!

Caste Thoughts

17/09/11

I was reading a little bit about the caste system in India, and don't get me wrong I am no expert and could have completely misunderstood but again it did get me to thinking about the socio-economic boudaries in the UK. It's not certain exactly why the caste system came about, it may have been that marriage outside of your families trade was not allowed because this would prevent the continuation or passing on of skills and expertise. It could also have been because certain jobs were dangerous and could spread disease and it was thought certain groups within castes built up immunity doing these jobs. Anyway this system still exists today and places restrictions on all areas of life and how you are expected to behave and are perceived and it

is a system that many are trying to move away from and there are laws in place to try and prevent discrimination.

In theory in this country there isn't a caste system, yet there are definate stereotypes that mainly seem to revolve around economic status and expectations. Families of low economic income or with no income are all provided accommodation in the same communities - where are the working role models? Is there the aspirations for young people growing up in

these communities? I don't know.

Another stereotype that seems to be prevalent and that is of the 'young person' - hoody, up to no-good, lazy, foul mouthed etc. has it always been the case that older generations frown upon and are afraid of groups of young people? Even I at only 29 years old am suspicious of groups of teenagers hanging around. How has this happened? Is this me being discriminatory towards young people or a snob?

How lucky we are!

I took this photo from the rooftop of our hotel and it made me think

about how lucky we are in the UK and why so many

refugees flee to our country. In the UK, you don't have

to work a day in your life, have any ambition or make any contribution to society

in anyway and you will be provided for. Then here in India and many other countries, and countries

we will visit, you can work every hour of every day and you may feel lucky to have shelter and live in a room like this, to maybe send your children to school. other cultures put so much more emphasis on being reponsible, making a contribution to society, providing for you family, learning a skill, carrying on their blood line.

Or you could be born witha disability and just because of where you are born be left to fend for yourself, not given any care and be forced to beg on the street.

Then, this may possiblby seen as Karma by others.

All this may made me feel yes- we are so fortunate to have the national health system and social system that we will

provide for us in our time of need. In some communities it seems to have become the norm to live of the state, this is

all that can be expected.

But where has our sense of responsibility for self? Or what about our reponsibility for future generations?

How is it we now feel that we are owed this, that it is our right?

Days 1 & 2 - Delhi

Today was our first proper day out and about exploring Delhi. Our first experience was being driven through Delhi to Old Delhi on a rickshaw. Rickshaw drivers are some of the poorest people living in Delhi and they work so hard for their money. We had this tiny man riding and pulling Martin and I through the busiest streets, fighting the heat, pot holes, huge puddles, holding his ground against trucks, cars, horse/cow drawn carts. And for only 80 rupees (about £1.15). The journey was incredible. Delhi is a lot more ramshackle and the poverty so obvious, much more so than many cities I have visited. There is rubbish everywhere.

We eventually got to Old Delhi train station and then walked from there to the Red Fort or Lal Qila, which was very impressive. It was built in the 1600's and was the centre of Moghul government. Some very impressive architecture with beautiful marble arches and quiet gardens.

We then ventured in to Old Delhi and wandered down the tiny streets, where we actually didn't get too much hassle. Unfortunately we are not brave enough yet to sample the food off the stalls on the roadside, trying to give ourselves time to acclimatise! After getting a bit lost and finding ourselves in a food market we got in an auto rickshaw and made our way to Connaught Place.

Connaught place is the busy circular 'modern' hub of the city where you can find any brand or label contrasted with the shoe shine and chai stalls outside. We got stopped every few minutes by touts trying to take us to another tourist information office. After wandering around for a bit we decided to walk back to our hotel.

Count down!

Most people I know are gearing up to go back to work, setting up their classrooms and mentally preparing themselves for all the new characters they will be teaching. Instead we're preparing ourselves for the unexpected and being bombarded with new sights and sounds as we prepare to leave the country for at least 5 months. Very excited! We fly to Delhi on the 14th September for our first stop.

So if you're interested - watch this space.