09.11.11
So far in Indonesia we had spent a lot of time on beaches
and had noticed alot about the differences in culture.
But hadn't actually found out a lot about life in Bali,
paricularly about their version of Hinduism, which plays
such a huge part in life here. So we'd decided to
invest in a driver, who was highly recommended online, to take us
around Ubud and the surrounding temples and rice
terraces to try and find out more! It was way out of our
budget but I had far too many questions!
So Ari arrived at 9am this morning. From the word go,
Ari was very friendly and courteous and is eager to
answer any questions about his life and culture. He told
us about his life. He lives in a village with his family,
including his brothers's families and his mother and father,
who all share a compound. Each family of 4/5 has their own
house. Within his village there are 26 compounds and 700
people total living there.
Ari's father was a builder by trade originally, then recently
he was made 'head' of the village, which he did for 5 years and
now he does neither, but manages his livestock and helps to
look after his grandchildren. Ari explained that anybody in
the village can be the 'head', unless they have children as
they will have too many responsibilities and will not be able
to support them properly. They must be nominated by others in
the village and after 5 years someone else will take the
position. It is a lot of responsibility.
The first temple that Ari took us to is called Goa Gajah (Elephant
Caves) because when it was first rediscovered it was thought the
cave entrance was a carving of an elephant, but actually it is
a demon. On this site there is a Hindu temple and also a Buddhist
temple, which was destroyed during an earthquake.
To enter the sight you walk down a long flight of steps. Below you,
you can see a bathing pool and to the left of it the mouth of a
small cave. To get to the bathing pool you have to go down a few
steep steps and opposite you are a row 6 female figures with what was
the 'male' figure in the middle. Ari explained that Balinese Hindu's also
worship Shiva, Krishna and Brahma who are all mainfestations of the same spirit Sanghyang Widhi.
But Balienese HIndu's also believe in native/local spirits and demons and
alot of the rituals revolve around maintaining balance.
Particular colours are very symbolic.
White and Gold are often seen within the temple, and
all worshippers wear these colours, these are holy colours. Black and
white represent good and evil and red represents power.
We went through the mouth of the Demon down a narrow passage way with
some alcoves, used for meditation in to a wide and shallow chamber,
where offering were laid out. Everywhere on Bali you come across
little baskets of offerings; on the pavement, outside every shop,
on the beach. The offerings are in coconut leaf baskets. You can
put in anything from rice, flowers, incense, cigarrettes- whatever
you have. Whatever you can give. If you have a bigger wish you may
want to give a bigger offering consisting of rice, then a coconut,
on top a lotus flower. The rice represents that earth/ground, the coconut the
world and the flower the universe.
We had noticed that down every street there were several temples. Ari
explained that each family had a small temple. Then in each village
there would be several different temples for different purposes/times.
He showed us a small garden temple with a small shrine on a little
island with a 'moat' surrounding it.All around the coast of Bali there are temples to
protect the island. Ari said the Balinese people joke that is there
is a tsunami the Gods will die first!
Once we had walked through the Hindu temple we followed a maze of steps
downwards in to a small valley where the ruins of a huge statue of
Buddha lay, it had once sat at the top of the hill. We followed the steps
up and past the original sight of the Buddha and wound through the rice
fields back to the Hindu temple.
Next we got back in the car to continue on to Yeh Pulu, which I was
excited about because it was supposed to be really peaceful and off
the tourist trail. I wasn't disappointed. To get to the temple we had
to walk through some picturesque rice terraces, apparently about a month
off harvesting. This temple is on the sight of a natural spring where there
is a small bathing pool. It dates from the 14th and 15th century and
is one of the oldest holy places in Bali. Before you reach the carvings
you stepped through a stone entrance way that is symmetrical. It represents
splitting yourself in two, leaving the bad behind at the gate and entering
with the good. Ari explained inner 'gates' within temples represent
then unifying yourself, channelling your energies to God. There isn't
a inner gateway on this site however. There is 20 metres of stone carvings
of Hindu and Balinese Gods. An old lady looks after the shrine to Ganesh.
The next temple is called Gunung Kawi, the 'Mountain of the Poets'. This
complex dates from the 11th century. It is a very impressive, atmospheric
setting. You have to descend down 300 odd steps in to a humid, ravine
lined with trees. It was thought to have been created as the burial
place for King Anuk Wungsu and his wives. On either side of the ravine,
through which flows the Pakerisan River, are the 9 tombs, said to have been
carved out of rock by fingernails. As you peer in to the ravine you can
see a huge rock which has the imprint of a giant 'hand' pressed in to it!
On the other side of the river is the temple and burial sight of the King.
The walk back up was tiring but we were rewarded with lush views across the
rice fields and in to the ravine. The next stop on our trip was Tirta
Empal, which is one of the holiest sites on Bali as it is the site of a
holy spring. We were really fortunate as today is a full moon, so a holy day
and there was a ceremony going on when we arrived. The Balinese calendar is
based on the lunar calendar.
Before you enter the temple, you should wash at the holy springs. You can
bath in the 2 pools which are fed by 10 fountains, each representing
something different. The worshippers enter the pool and move from left to right
washing under each fountain. Some people also collect the holy water to take
back to their homes.
Walking on towards the temple entrance there were many women carrying large baskets
on their heads, full of fruit and flowers to leave at the temples as offerings.
The baskets are then taken home, after receiving a blessing. On our left as we
entered the temple is a large pagoda with people playing colourful instuments.
Placed all over the floor were small offerings. The temple is open air with 3 or
4 other large pagodas where basket upon basket had been left. Then there was the
inner temple and the site of the natural hole spring.
Within a separate courtyard was a large congregation, again all dressed in white,
sat on the floor. First they faced the 2 priests sat on a pacoda at one end.
Then at the other was lots of baskets of offerings in front of the springs, which
at the appropriate point the congregation all turned to face.
We were so lucky to be able to experience this even though we didn't fully
understand what was going on!
Our next stop, was lunch overlooking rice terraces, near the famous Tegallangtang
terraces, which we stopped at last of all. The rice fields are stepped down
the hill. Ari explained that Balinese farmers use a famous irrigation system,
where water is channelled from the top layer down through the fields to the bottom.
The first month the fields are almost flooded and need increasingly less water
throughout the process. When the rice is ready, you can tell this when the top
of the crop is a brown colour, the field needs to be dry so that the crop can be harvested.
This is of course increasingly done with machinery but in some places is still done by
hand. The rice is cut and then beaten by hand to release the part that contains
the rice. This is then left to dry out in the sun. I was suprised how hard the rice
grain actually is before the outer coating is peeled away to reveal the white grain.
The views were beautiful, so many bright greens and tall palm trees. The view was
only spoilt by the odd farmer loitering hoping to get you to photograph them
'farming'!
We had such a good day with Ari, it was well worth the extra money for us. And
actually Ari's price is very reasonable, but we are just on a very tight budget!
He was very informative, friendly and helpful. He even provided bottles of water,
large umbrellas (which he carried for us) and lent us sarongs. He did however
draw the line at carrying Martin back up the steps from Gunung Kawi!! He took us
around each temple explaining what we saw and has good knowledge of the history
of each sight. Thanks very much Ari!
